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The tank then starts to grow like a black mold on the rocks, glass, and plants. The fog kinda looks like cotton floating above the rocks. I have changed everything out each time. Its a fresh water tank and has a pretty expensive filter on it. I had 2 bubblers going at the same time I removed one thinking maybe to much oxegen. This started to happen after I moved into this new house. The house filters there water outside with just a filter cartridge. The ph is in the normal range on the test kit. I've done water changes. All my algea eaters have died off. I'm desperate, please give me some advice. THANKS:

oh no. If it looks like a light cotton floating, it is most likely a fungus. I have had the exact same problem. I was cycling myu tank and i notice little cottony looking things on the gravel. Turns out that the used driftwood I got, had some sort of fungus on it. I had to remove the decor and boil it all. Then i had to gravel vac the entire tank so that their was no more visible fungus. That took care of it...thankfully.


If I were you I would start by;
~Take out all decor and boil it if you can. You could always bleach it with a 1 part bleach to 20 parts water for 24 hours. Then soak it in a over dose of dechlorinator.
~Then I would gravel vac the whole tank so that no more fungus is visible.
~Finally let the tank run with out decor for a week and monitor parameters and make obsevations. If it seems to work, put the decor back in. Then continue to moniter it.

2009-02-13 03:50:31 by RAIDERS

www.waterfilters.net Aquaman demonstrates how to change a Sediment Water Filter Cartridge and offers some useful tips on general maintenance ...

Well I was told to never change the bio-bag because it houses most of the beneficial bacteria. So today I just rinsed them with tank water. They seemed very dirty. The rinsing didn't really make it look any cleaner. Is it true that you never have to change these (because that is what I was told when I asked my previous question)? It makes sense that you don't want to lose all the bacteria, but at the same time I don't understand how you can never change them in the lifetime of the tank.

Thanks in advance. Hope you can clear things up for me.

What you are rinsing out is the physical dirt that the media filters out, the discoloration is normal. You will eventually have to replace the media, when it is falling apart.

What you do is rinse the dirt out of the old media, and let it float in the tank for a week to help in the transfer of nitrifying bacteria to the new media. Do not feed the fish for 24 hours before the switch, and feed about 1/3 normal for the next week, less food means less waste produced, minimizing the chance of any cycling problems.

2008-07-07 20:31:50 by Tyler V

Worst cae scenario - how much to it cost to either replace or repair the plumbing in a 4100 SF house. I am considering buying a house which was left vacant in a Minnesota winter. At a minamum there are leaks at the coupling above the main shut off valve, the pressure reducer above the water heater, a waster pipe from an upper floor toilet, the kitchen refrigerator, a burst water softener filter cartridge and irrigation system piping from the house (above ground). The house was not completely pressurized to test other plumbing issues for fear of causing further leak related damage.

600
could be for the labor if they charge $60 an hour
I charge $90 in oregon
But he left out the costs of the materials
The pressure reducing valve is around 125.00
the filter housing is dependant of what it is
How bad is the irrigation damaged?
It all adds up
My guess at my rates
1500.00

2008-06-10 13:29:45 by retired47

I have a 55 gallon tank that I just moved from my old house to my new apartment. I emptied about 99% of the water keeping just enough to cover the gravel in there so it wouldn't dry out, and i kept the filter cartridges in a tupperware filled with tank water during the move. I was wondering how long I need to re-cycle the tank before I can add fish. Also, I previously had a community tank but I brought the fish back to the LFS before the move and am now considering doing my first cichlid tank. Any advice you can offer for tips on setting up a first time cichlid tank and having success would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Your moving plan sounds correct.

Get some fish back in there fairly soon though. Most of the bacteria will have survived the move, but they now have no food and will slowly die off. A couple of days is OK, a couple of weeks and you may have to build up the cycle again. So give it a day for the water to clear and the temp to stabilise and get a few fish in there.

I wouldn't dump a full load of fish in right away, but if you are buying new ones, they will be smallish anyway.

Ian

2008-05-13 19:11:53 by Matt D

im looking for a good deal is this good and what other stuff do i need?
55 gallon glass tank, 48" x 24" x 12" black trim top and bottom
Black hood, double lights. Blue marine bulbs promote algae & coral life.
(2) filters: Whisper EX70, Whisper EX35 (105 gallons total).
Whisper Air Pump 60 gallon.
(2) 18" long bubble bars, plenty of tubing.
Chemicals to start and maintain tank.
PLENTY of rocks, live rock, seashells.
Currently housing (2) damsels, green brittle star, blackbanded bamboo shark (infant).
Net, food, filter cartridges, cleaning magnet.
200 watt heater.
65lbs live sand.
Hydrometer.
im looking for a good deal is this good and what other stuff do i need? ohh i fergot to add all fish are out. so no shark
55 gallon glass tank, 48" x 24" x 12" black trim top and bottom
Black hood, double lights. Blue marine bulbs promote algae & coral life.
(2) filters: Whisper EX70, Whisper EX35 (105 gallons total).
Whisper Air Pump 60 gallon.
(2) 18" long bubble bars, plenty of tubing.
Chemicals to start and maintain tank.
PLENTY of rocks, live rock, seashells.
Currently housing (2) damsels, green brittle star, blackbanded bamboo shark (infant).
Net, food, filter cartridges, cleaning magnet.
200 watt heater.
65lbs live sand.
Hydrometer.

yeah!

2008-12-01 20:17:37 by J Man