WaterFilterTop.com

I have a boat that has twin Mercruiser 7.4 motors with spin on fuel-water seperator filters. The starboard motor was starving for fuel and not able to achieve more than 3000 rpms. I replaced the filters and there was water in the fuel. You could see the water sitting in the bottom of a clear bowl when the fuel from the filter was poured in. I have been adding 99% rubbing alcohol to my fuel to help evaporate the water and bring it to the top to burn. I don't think this is enough. After changing the filters I gained a few hundred rpms on the starboard motor but there is still a variance between motors. In addition, both motors cannot reach top rpms.

Does anyone know of a way short of running the boat and replacing filters until most of the water and fuel is gone to avoid this? Marine fuel docks seems to have a problem with water in teh fuel since ethynol was added. In addition, if you buy fuel when they have low tanks, that does not help either. Please help, thanks.

Drain the tanks, fill them with fresh fuel. Change all your fuel filters. Then give the points to mercman because he covered it all.

2006-08-30 22:37:30 by srmvegas

Jamestown Distributors TV: 3M RV and Marine Water Filtration Systems Part I. This first video is on installing a USF-C Filter. To learn more, go ...

Yes you can add your rock to the tank to "cure it" Chances are if you bought it from the store it is already cured. It is rare these days to purchase it not cured.

Remember if you are going to do this in your tank, NO fish.

You are going to have spike s of ammonia out the wazoo. This will not harm the tank but it will spike the readings. Keep testing if it truly is not cured. No fish until the readings are normal.

Love you dot but the neutrifiying bacteria she is talking about does not work. Bacteria cannot live in a bottle without a source of food. This is just a bunch of goo that that dumped into the tank. You won't need it when curing rock. your rock will have enough "dying" off your tank will spike quickly.

2008-07-21 18:07:17 by brendansillett

Price: $23.49

Replaces Mercury 35-809097, Yamaha MAR-24563-03-00, Racor S3213
70

I have a Marine tank and I filled it last night with the salt, decorinator, purple up, and bacteria. There's no on filter right now because one of the back internal overflows has a leak so the water is just kind of sitting there with one jet blowing it around. How long will it take to clear up or will it not take that long after the filter starts running?

I will agree with 3-4 days. I set a saltwater tank up for a friend and even with prerinsing the substrate, it was 3 days before the tank started to look clear, and 4 days before it cleared completely. And that was using a filter on the tank.

What makes them take longer than freshwater is that the salt makes things float [think about the Great Salt Lake in Utah]. It doesn't let the particles that cause the cloudiness settle out as quickly.

I have to agree that it wasn't necessary to add the purple up if you don't have live rock yet. And all that is is extra calcium and magnesium and trace elements that are already in your salt mix. So you don't really need to use it. And if you do have live rock added, but just didn't list it, your tank will also be cycling, and this causes cloudiness. This can take longer to clear completely because it involves the bacteria becoming established. It doesn't look attactive, but it will go away on its own. Just keep the pump/powerhead running because the bacteria need oxygen to survive. If the water loses the dissolved oxygen, you'll have added the bacteria for nothing too.

I will agree also that you should mix the salt in a separate container, then add it to your tank. If you add it directly, you won't have the correct salinity, it'll either bee to high [if you put the salt in first] or too low [if you add the water first]. Not having the salinity at the right level can kill all the beneficial oragnisms on the live rock, and any fish or things you add later. The only time this would be okay to do is in a bare tank that you're just setting up, or 1 that only has dry rocks or sand [nothing living].

2009-03-29 11:53:43 by Brandi S

Price: $92.99 $28.90

Certified flow rate of 350GPH, perfect for all aquariums up to 70-gallon, uses two Rite-Size "C" filter cartridges
Delivers easy, three stage mechanical, chemical, and biological aquarium filtration
Convenient Penguin Rite Size Cartridges come ready to use with each filter

I wasn't sure that it would still cycle. Used mature filter sponge. I have tested it and nitrate and nitrate and both are at zero. Is it ready? Thanks

How long ago did you set this up? And how big is the tank? The filter isn't the only thing that holds the beneficial bacteria. There's loads in the substrate and on the live rock. If you emptied everything out, then yes you need to cycle.

Try adding some food so it will break down and feed the bacteria. Generally, wait until you see nitrate levels start to rise. This means that the bacteria have taken care of the ammonia and nitrite.

Sounds like you know what you're doing. You could throw in a couple cheap damsels and see how they do in there. They will also help with the cycle and will survive any ammonia or nitrite spikes.

2007-06-24 05:28:51 by stargatesg1_prometheus

what water conditions could be expected in an area where large numbers of mud-dwelling,filter-feeding,marine annelids are found?

a.disturbed sediment
b.abundance of bacteria
c.abundance of algae
d.all of the above

d. all of the above
________________
Mud- dwellings means a plenty of sediment and presence of annelids would create a case with disturbed water condition.
Presence of fungi, bacteria and also algae are obvious in such a bad water condition.
Thus, my conclusion is the answer --> D

2008-06-27 08:25:16 by Goddamnshethick