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what are the differences between tank less and a instantaneous water heaters ?

and which one is better ?
which one is more expensive ?
and which one would you recommend to a customer ?

thanks PLUMBER'S !!!!!!!!!!!
i mean conventional storage type water heater. and a tankless

The main difference is one has a tank, and the other has no tank. That is obvious! Now let's shed some light on the subject. Lets say you already have a tank water heater, and you want to replace it with a tankless model. Location is the key. If your water heater is in the garage, or the attic, there are certain disadvantages, associated with each location. Lets say your existing tank water heater is in the garage, and you have a laundry room next to the garage. Your kitchen is about 20' away, and you have a 1/2 bath next to the laundry, and 2 full baths located on the other side of the house. Your house has 6 gas openings, and 12 fixtures that use hot water. If the new heater is gas, the BTU rating will play a key role. Normal tank water heaters are rated at 40,000-50,000 BTU's. Depending on the manufacturer, most of the tankless heaters can provide enough hot water for 2 fixtures at one time. If you need more fixtures supplied with hot water, the BTU rating of the heater has to be bigger, thus the cost goes up. Most manufacturers will state their heaters specs for 2 -3 fixtures at a time, and they require a dual system or even triple systems, depending on house size, fixture use, and location of the heater in relation to the fixtures. These dual systems, require a controller to activate the various heaters, as more hot water is requested. The BTU rating of these types of heaters can run from 199,000 BTU"S to 450,000 BTU"s or more. This increased demand for gas, will affect the size of the gas pipe. Also, the flue pipe used for the tank type heater has to be dual wall pipe, and for the tankless type, the flue pipe has to be triple wall stainless steel. The cost for the stainless steel flue could run more than the cost of the new tankless heater. The main misconception of tankless heaters is that they supply instant hot water. Yes the heater ignites instantly, but the water sitting in the pipes has to be moved from the heater to the fixture that asks for hot water. As I stated earlier, the location of the heater, in relation to the fixtures calling for gas, plays a crucial part in how fast the hot water arrives at the fixture asking for hot water. Some manufacturers do show circulating pumps, and storage tanks in their systems, but the use of these in their systems, could reduce the warranty supplied by the manufacturer. Care should be taken when choosing these type water heaters. More and more manufacturers are coming on line with heaters of their own, so read all the data, before buying any of them. Take care when selecting an installer, as some companies know their products, while others are just looking to take your money, and don't care to learn about the products they install. Good luck!

2008-11-03 17:36:01 by Dr. Phil

Music video by Brad Paisley performing Water. (C) 2010 Sony Music Entertainment

I have an older home, and were we are its extremely cold. I have water running in the kitchen sink, tub and bathroom sink, I always thought you would just run cold water? Then i heard some guy say hot water? does it matter? Also the kitchen, bathroom are on the south side of the house, so i didnt know if i need water running at all faucets, i have small water running, I also have the cupboards open where the pipe runs to the kitchen to help air flow? my main concern was does the temperature of the water matter? i noticed i have no hot water in the bathroom sink, but i have cold water, i have hot water in the tub, so not sure whats going on there?
i forgot to say, i have no basement

First off the thought was that running water does not freeze as easily as still water. Water will still freeze if it is cold enough-even in the creeks.
Secondly, why they are saying hot water is that in plumbing, the hot and cold pipe could be(not always) are running close together and hot water(which comes heated from the tank) will impart the heat in the same cavity as the cold water(if that pipe is there). That is the thought. It does drain your tank which has to keep reheating more and more water.
The difference between the bathroom sink and the tub would be in the plumbing(or that the hot water to the sink has frozen.

What to do. Having the cupboard open to room temp is the right thing to do. Check in the basement (how cold it is) and for exposed pipes. Those pipes will be that cold.

Pay attention. If the pipes are on the outer walls of the house - where the insulation is suppose to be THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM. It has its butt in the frost 24/7(just like a refridgerator).
Modern homes (the 50's on at least) have the plumbing on the inside walls or no closer that6" to the inside of the outer(insulated) wall. And the water tank is in the middle of the home.

You have to expose the pipes from the inside walls and get the room air to contact them. Also you need glass or syrofoam insulation behind them. Hope none have already broken(which means you would have to tear the wall apart anyways). Do a retrofit in the spring.

Now I know you are asking, why was it built this way? Maybe cause initially they had a well? And pipes were added later for running water.

2007-02-05 10:27:23 by g

Price: $17.99

Hello! I may have a problem with water hammer or pockets of air or whatever in my plumbing system. In order to troubleshoot, I want to drain the water from the pipes for the whole house and then refill it. What should I do with the water in water heater and water softner? Do I drain the water heater and water softner? Just turn power off on my Kenmore water softner? or use bypass valve? Thanks for your time!

turn off the heater. shut the valve to prevent siphoning. by-pass the softener. install water hammer devices sold at your hardware store. you may need a few if four house is big. if you need to you can use compression fittings or tiger gripps.

2007-07-06 09:01:47 by oskeewow13

Price: $15.00 $15.00

Pure mountain spring water
Pack of thirty, 16.9-Ounce per bottle (Total of 507-Ounce)
Highest quality freshness

It seems that plumbing in my house has a problem with water hammer. First, I thought it only occurs when toilet tanks are filling back with water, but I realized that it happens whenever water is used anywhere in home. It just that water hammer is not as bad when I use faucets. So I've been trying to figure out where or source of this water hammer. By listening to where the sound is coming from, and by touching the water pipe with my finger tips, I learned that sound is loudest where the main water pipe comes in through the concrete wall. I guess I can install a water hammer arrestor. But I am trying to understand why water hammer is occuring. Here is my guess. Please let me know what you think. There is a branch near this point where pipe leads out to the faucet outside the house. While water tries to flow further into the house, perhaps vacumm is being created in this branch pipe and causing water hammer. Is this possible? What do you think? Thanks!
1. Noise comes from pipes near water main, not the toilets. noise just louder with toilets, reduced intake valve and reduced noise
2. With my fingertips, I can feel the pipe vibrating.
3. Perhaps water traveling to water softner and bouncing back?
4. Checked diaphram valve on toilet, it looked fine.
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I guess I'll just install couple water arrestors and see what happens...

A Plummer once told me that the water hammer was caused by air in the water lines. To cure this he shut off the water at the main and drained all the line by opening all the faucets. After water quit running he turned the water back on leaving the all the faucets open after about a half hour he started turning the faucets off one at a time. When he was finished there was no more hammering sounds. When I say all the facuets I mean all outside and inside.

2007-07-05 07:27:04 by oskeewow13

I have noticed that my 5-gallon fish tank loses water as the weeks go by. This causes the water level to go below the top of the filtration unit, which causes less water to get filtrated. That's why I want to put more water.

I can't use tap water because my dechlorination tablets are for ten gallons of water and I need to put in less than half a gallon.

Will it be safe for my fish if I put in Ozarka drinking water?

Bottled drinking water will often still have chlorine or chloramines in it, which are toxic for fish. Your best bet is to get a big bucket and put in 5 or 2.5 gallons of water and then break one of your tablets in half or into quarters and drop it in. Then top off your tank with that water whenever it needs it.

2007-10-07 11:15:52 by brian123