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I live in Memphis, TN and am interested in converting my pool to a salt water system. In my initial research, it seems as though there are a lot of different brands...each claiming to be the best. What do I need to look for? Are they all the same? I'd rather spend a little more up front in exchange for a system that requires less maintenance.

I've worked in a pool store for a long time and if you have a salt generator you definitely want to got with either Hayward or Pentair. Hayward has a system called the Goldline that works well. There are a couple of factors you have to take in account. The initial cost of a generator is about 1000-1500 dollars. They say that you will make up the cost in not having to buy chlorine but that is not always the case. In the generator there is a cell that goes bad every 1-2 years!!!! The replacement is around 500-1000 dollars!!!!. Also, a lot of people think that if you use salt it's not chlorine. THIS IS NOT TRUE!! The salt gets turned into liquid chlorine which is unstabilized and does not last long in the water. Liquid chlorine can also affect your PH and you will be battling with that as well. Just wanted to give you a heads up.

2008-07-28 07:27:37 by Arnette C

Lowe#39;s home improvement expert, Mike Kraft, shares advice on swimming pool maintenance. Learn how to maintain your pool by testing amp ...

yes you can and it doesnt take much work. a couple of cuts in the plumbing and an electrical outlet and its pretty much ready to work. but like she said it is pricey they range from probably $800 - $1600 plus the initial salt. so you're looking at close to $2000 at first, but after that you can go to your local lowes or home depot and buy water softner salt and that works just as good. but if your chlorine pool works fine why change unless someone is allergic or other reasons. but i wouldnt change because they really dont save you that much money. then if they break you're looking at more money because its all electrical stuff. any other questions give me a buzz

2007-04-29 09:49:03 by Pat I.

Price: $25.52 $17.00

100 micron fiber filter
Includes flexible hose protector
Larger capacity RV water filter lasts an entire season

i have a mesh cover and pool my pools always is green when i open it we have a salt water system what should i do step by step to get bit blue again

When you have a safety cover (what I assume when you say mesh and not simply a leaf cover), you need to open your pool as soon as is possible. Ice out. You don't have to heat it, just balance the water and add some shock until you intend to warm it. Salt systems need warmer water to work. You'll also have to get a salinity reading. If the pool level was dropped for winterizing, you'll need to add some salt.
If you leave it until well after ice out, simply balance the water, add salt if required. Get your TA and pH in range first. Takes a day. If your water is warm enough for your salt system ( typically 60 F or more for most cells) you can start it up and set it to the shock setting to get your residual up . If your pool water stays above 60F, it'll work for you and in conjunction with your filter and water balance, will clear your pool in a week or so easily. Often in a day.
That's it.

2009-05-04 18:56:48 by mathesfamily13

Price: $99.00

Glass reinforced housing prevents rust
Removes water within 1/8-inch of surface
1-year limited warranty

Is there a real difference in what kind of salt I use for my salt water pool system? Can I just buy the 50 lb bag from Smart & Final for $5 as opposed to the 40-lb "pool salt" bag for $10 from my local pool supply company? Aren't they both the same form of salt, so long as I don't use rock salt? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!! :)

A beautiful question and one that deserves a proper answer! Thank you for coming to the realization that there are pool chemicals out there that aren't designed for the pool.

Table Salt = Sodium Chloride = Pool Salt
They are the exact same thing. In fact the food grade table salt is finer milled so it will dissolve quicker.

Here's a few others you may not know about:
Alkalinity increaser = Sodium Carbonate (latest chemical name) = Sodium Bicarbonate = Arm & Hammer Baking Soda

pH Increaser/Buffer = sodium tetraborate pentahydrate (or decahydrate) = 20 Mule Team Borax from your detergent isle of your grocery store in a green box.

Since the first two (salt and baking soda) are food grade they have been more finely milled so they dissolve quicker in water, plus they have undergone rigid testing to ensure their quality and purity. Would you trust the purity of chemicals from a pool store to eat?

Soda Ash is generally used to increase the pH of a pool, but it doesn't buffer the pH against fluctuations. To do this you will need a secondary chemical, borax. But wait, when you add it it will increase the pH of the pool considerably... much higher than soda ash alone. So why buy soda ash to do part of the job when borax will do the entire job? Why indeed. Since 20 Mule Team is sold as a detergent it must meet stringent EPA standards for phosphates and other chemical additives. So you can be sure that there's nothing in the box besides borax.

BTW, did you know that borax is the primary ingredient of many patented pool aids and algistats? Yellow OUT, Mustard Master, Proteam Supreme, Biolab Optimizer, Yellow Treat, No Mor Problems, and a few others. Also, Yellow OUT doesn't actually kill algae it "decolorizes" it. Leaving you with a pool full of algae that you can't see.

There is far more information here than you originally asked for, but I thought it might be helpful.

2007-05-02 17:14:45 by Mama911

Our pool is 6 years old and has a GoldLine Salt water system. Could it be a fuse problem? There doesnt seem to be ANY electricity 'running' it.

If it's the type that uses fuses then I would check them. Or if it uses a pump,the pump could be bad. There may be an internal pump inside the system that has failed.

2008-07-20 23:35:29 by RICKYSBEACHBABY