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Why do homes have a hot water tank in the hot press as well as an additional water tank (usually in the attic) to fill this? Why can't the water going into the hot tank come straight from the mains?

This is not as simple as it sounds.

there are two mian types of water storage system used in the UK. open vented and unvented.

The open vented system - water from cistern to the storage cylinder

This type of system gets it’s name from the way in which the hot water feed cistern (water tank) acts as an expansion devise for the cylinder, the hot water draw off rises and terminates above the feed cistern allowing expansion of the hot water. With this type of system there are two types, direct heat and indirect. In the direct type the water is heated directly from the source of heating either by immersion heater or from the boiler. In an indirect system the heating water and the hot water are separated and the water is heated via a heat exchanger from a boiler.(normally a coil inside the cylinder)


Unvented Hot water - Water direct from mains to the storage cylinder

This type of system gets it’s name because there is no hot water feed cistern (water tank) to act as an expansion devise for the cylinder, so for this system to work a lot of safety devises must be fitted to protect the system.

The expaning water is accommodated separately the expansion vessel should preferably be of an approved 'flow through type' and should comply with the requirements of BS 6144 and BS 6920. this is usually coloured red and about the size of a football.

An expansion valve should be fitted to all unvented hot water storage systems, with a capacity in excess of 15 litres, to ensure that expansion water is discharged in a correct manner in the event of a malfunction of the expansion vessel or system.

Irrespective of the type of fuel used for heating, the temperature of the water at any point within a hot water storage system should not exceed 100°C and appropriate vent pipes, temperature control devices and other safety devices should be provided to prevent this occurring normally in the form of a temperature relief valve.

Expansion valve and a temperature relief valves are mandatory in the UK.

2009-01-22 11:29:17 by PeteD

house well 45 feet deep.water is rising and lowering daily about 5 to 9 feet.the house is 3 storied.the water tank is at the top and is about 30 feet from ground and about 60 feet from water.what type of pump will be perfect for pulling water from 35 feet and sending water to the tank.the water pump cannot be fixed right on top of the well due to design problem and it is to be fixed 10 feet away from the well at floor.please advise.

a 1/2 horsepower submersible pump would fit you situation perfectly....they deliver 10 gallons per minute at 0 psi...so at your depth and working pressure,usually 30on 50 off this pump would deliver 8 to 9 gallons per minute....this would supply good pressure to your home...be sure and put pressure switch and checkvalve at tank....use 160 psi plastic pipe from pump to tank....12/3 submersible pump wire will do for electrical.(this is not romex cable )...be sure and get waterproof connectors for all splices in the welll at pump.....tank air pressure should be 3 psi less than kick on pressure of pump with no water in tank...the tank needs to be a captive air tank...pump should be off bottom off well about two feet to keep sediment from from being pulled into pump...the well will supply you one gallon of water for every foot in a 6 inch well

2007-05-13 18:57:55 by amraza50

Price: $175.00 $133.00

WQA Certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 42 and 53
Valve-in Head shuts water off automatically for easy filter changes - no tools needed
System comes equipped with everything needed for installation

my cabin is located on a dry ridge (no hope for a well) and accesses water from a community well sys that is sometimes down for days with leaks, etc. I need at least a 5 day backup of water. Idea: add in a water holding tank. Water supply pipes are at bottom of lot, I would need a pump to get it up the hill into my tank, then out of the tank into the pressurized water tank and into the home. I am estimating a 1500 gallon holding tank (rental cabin with 4 bedrooms) to carry the capacity for 5 days. here are questions: 1) what kind of alarm could alert me that the water holding tank is not longer pulling water because the community water supply is out of order. reason for need - no one would notify me and I do not want to burn out the pump. 2) What kind of pump is best to pull water up hill into holding tank? 3) How would I keep tank from overfilling due to freezing potential during winter? 4) any other issues with this inline installation? thanks!!!!

I assume you are getting water to the cabin, when the community system is up and running, and you do not have to pump it.

You need to have a reserve supply of water for when it is not.

Either you have to use a pump and a pressure tank or not.

The difference in elevation between the water supply pipes down below and the cabin is less than about 20 feet, or more.

If the elevation is too high, you will need to pump up from down below, rather than suck it up the hill.

If the community water system supplies sufficient pressure when it is up and running, why would it not be able also to fill a tank at the cabin elevation? You could throttle the tank fill line so it didn't rob pressure from normal domestic use. A float valve could control the maximum level.

If you have to pump water up, the pump could be powered through a contact on a pressure switch, which senses community water pressure. Insufficient pressure--pump doesn't run.

You could click on my picture to chat about this.

2007-10-08 13:38:34 by Lee Ann

Price: $349.99 $256.52

Designed to meet the requirements of, and are listed by the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) under ANSI/NSF Std 61
A high gloss enamel finish protects tank from the elements
The polypropylene liner for the water reservoir will not flake, chip, crack or peel and does not impart taste and odor to the water

I have shut down the braker and set the pressure to 28 psi on the tank.
Pressure when the pump runs is at 60 on the tank gage
pump kicks on at 40 but there is vary little pressure and water only
comes out at a trickel.
My tank has water.
I get full pressure from the drain at bottom of tank but not to fixtures.
Well and pump are less than 1.5 years old
air charge to tank is 28 psi
gage reads 60 psi after pump runs and shuts off
filters in house or pump?
Well is new, point is clear
getting plenty of water and pressure at tank drain outlet.
daiphram style tank
Had New Water softener System puy in about a month ago and the rust clearing plugged up the filters bad!

check for blocked filters

2006-09-01 18:51:51 by Bedford

I have a single jet well system for water at my house. I'm trying to increase the water pressure so my irrigation system will work. I was told I need a bigger tank and a stronger (2hp) motor to pump the water. Can I just upgrade the motor without changing the tank? I have a 42 gallon tank and the well is 17 feet deep.

there should be a pressure regulating switch somewhere on your system that activates the pump when pressure drops and cuts it off when operating pressure is attained. you should be able to change the settings on the regulator to raise the cutoff pressure in the system

2007-06-05 19:12:00 by Brian S